Fold over collar



Jan. 5 1926.

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FOLD OVER COLLAR Fil v w 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 A7@WQE@'J O? J ed Oct. 11, 1921 Jan. 5 1926.

J. w; HESS FOLD ovga COLLAR Filed (fat. 11. 1921 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 ly/za Jan. 5 1926.

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WWW aw Patented Jan. 5, 1926.

mass fares l arner JOHN WILLIAM HESS, OF KITCHENER, ONTARIO, CANADA, ASSIGNOR TO CL'UETT, PEABODY & COMPANY, INC., OF TROY, NEW YORK, A CORPORATION OF NE If YORK.

FOLD-OVER COLLAR.

Application filed October 11, 1921. Serial No. 507,087.

T all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JOHN WILLIAM Hess, a subject of the King of Great Britain, and resident of Kitchener, in the county of \Vaterloo and. Province of Ontario, (fanada. have invented new and useful Improvements in Fold-Over Collars. of which the following is a specificat on.

This invention relates to the manufacture of fold-over collars and especially to the production of a soft unstarchcd or lightly starched collar of the fold-over type which shall be inherently stiff enough to hold its shape without wrinkling or crumpling and be economical to manufacture. In its fullest expression, my invention provides for the manufacture of a completely finished collar from two single pieces or blanks of fabric, with appropriately sewed or otherwise fastened seams and edge finishes, the operations devised in relation to the blanks 0f the material being such as to facilitate accurate assembly of the two parts and to maintain the accuracy of size and shape of the parts and the assembled articles, and to result in a well-fashioned article of great durability adapted to keep in shape in use.

The fabric from which the assembled blanks are cut, particularly if the collar is to be worn unstarched or only lightly starched, should be firm and stout. If heavy body is to be combined with fine texture, the fabric may be any of the known multi-ply weaves, either such as to present a simpleweave surface or a pattern, or the ribbed face pattern known as pique; or the fabric may be of any suitable stiff woven struc ture, either plain or patterned.

Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4t and 8 are elevations of the same end of a blank for the top of a collar in successive stages of manufacture;

Figs. 1 2 3 and 4 are respective sections on the lines aa of said Figures 1 to t respectively Figs. 5, 6 and 7 are views similar to 1 to 4; showing a modified procedure;

Figs. 5 6*, 7 and 8" are sections on the respective lines aa of Figs. 5 to 8;

Figs. 9 and 10 are respectively elevations of the corresponding end of a band blank showing two stages of manufacture;

Figs. 9 and 10 are respectively sections on the lines aa of Figs. 9 and 10;

Figs. 11 and 12 are respective views of one end of the band in stages of a modifiea'l procedure for making the band; A

Figs. 11 and 12 are respectively sections on lines aa of Figs. 11 and 12;

Fig. 13 shows the same end of the collar as indicated in Figs. 5 to 8, ll and 12, the blanks being assembled and fastened together;

Fig. 1% is a section on the line i it c Fig. 13;

Fig. 15 is a perspective view of the completed collar; and

Fig. 1G is a section on the line 1 16 or Fig. 15.

The operations in making a collar may comprise cutting, for example by dieing-oat the blanks from suitable cloth, folding and creasing the blanks, sewing the edge folds of the blanks, except as hereinafter specified; assembling the top blank and the band blank; and fastening together the top blank and band blank; these steps are particularly concerned with a method or procedure which will produce at the resultant stage of the manufacture a collar complete e) cept for the buttonholes and buttons or other variable or additional fe and which will not rely upon extraneous bar or plies of fabrics, reinforcements, patch s, etc. for the structural completeness of the article of manufacture produced.

For example, in the form shownin F inn. 1 to 4 and 8, and Figs. 9 and 10, one end of a. suitably shaped blank for the top is shown at 1, which is first creased parallel witn the edges of the cut blank at 2, 3 and l, and at 5, parallel with the top margin 12 (which may be straight, as shown, or curved). The

blank is now inwardly folded as shown in. Fig. 2 along the lines of the respective creases 2, 8 and 4, the inturned edges now being sewed in place by the lines of sewed stitches 7, Fig. 3. The blank can now be placed in a suitable folding machine and the inturned and sewed edges 8, Fig. 8, turned in upon themselves as shown in Figs. 4 and 4, and these inturned edges fastened by an interior line of stitches 9, F ig, 8, parallel with the stitches 7.

The procedure illustrated in Figs. 5, 6 and 7 likewise results in the stage of the making of the top portion illustrated in Fig. 8, but comprises additional score marks 10, Fig. 5, upon which the blank is a second time infolded by hand or machine, both folds being made before the production of the lines of stitches 11, Fig. 7.

In either case, the completed top portion is adapted to be folded at the crease 5, and is now ready to be assembled with a suitably formed band.

Referring now to Figs. 9, 9 and 10, 10 the band is formed of a blank having a body 20, an upper margin 21, which may be straight a: shown or curved, according to the pattern of the collar, and which blank comprises the integral marginal portion 22 extending around the ends and bottom of the band blank. The marginal portion is shown as marked off by line 23, which may be a score line outlining the contour of the ends and bottom of the band, which may be of any desired shape, and portion 22 is folded upon the body by hand or vtol-ding machine. The marginal portion 22 is now sewed down by the line 01 stitches 24-. The stage product shown in Fig. 10 may now be placed in a suitable folding machine and the edge turned in upon the body of the band all around the band. It will be observed that the upper edge Fig. 12, above the margin 21 in the present condition of the blank defines a once-turned edge, while the remainder of the blank is surrounded by a twice-turned edge told.

If desired, the stage of the product illustrated in Figs. 12, 12 may be reached without the intermediate sewing shown at 24 in Fig. 10. For example, as shown in Fig. 11, an unscored blank may be edge turned on the line 23 and then again edge turned to produce the stage shown in Fig. 12.

The top 1 and the blank are now assembled, as shown in Figs. 13 and 14., by inserting the over-hanging edge 12 of the top beneath the once turned edge fold 21 at the top of the band 20, by then opening the top 1 out to the position illustrated in Fig. 13, and then sewing a duplicate line o'l" stitches 26 entirely around the margins of the band 20, thus conjoining the top and band. The seam thus formed at the junction of band and top serves not only to conjoin the parts, but to determine, without special laundryfolding, an edge or line from which the top 1 depends when the collar is worn.

Suitable buttonholes 27 may be sewed in the band before or after assembly to the condition shown in Fig. 13.

It will be observed that by the described construction the top edge of the band, as finished for assembly, provides an open pocket under the edge 21 for the entire edge 12, including the over-folded ends, of the collar top, which constitutes a tongue adapted to enter the pocket under edge 21. This facilitates assembly in correct relation, the die cut edge of the tongue bottoming in the pocket and being positioned endwise by the angle 27 oi the edge-told of the band. The junction between top and band, thus formed, provides at the corners 28 of the top, Fig. 15, a strong and durable structure at the place most exposed to wear and tearing strains. It Will be obvious that this tongueand-pocket seam may be varied or reversed; for example, the pocket being formed in the top and the tongue on the band, if

desired; but I prefer the illustrated structure.

I claim:

A fold-over collar comprising a band having one edge portion folded toward its body, and a top having one edge portion folded toward its body, the said top and band being elsewhere edge-folded and the edge told fastened down to form the outer edges of the collar, and delimit a pocket under said first-mentioned edge portion of one of the parts, said first-mentioned edge portions being interlocked by one of them being in the pocket formed by the other, and fastened to each other and to the body portions respectively of said band and said top, the seam so formed determining a line of fold between the band and top.

Signed by me at Kitchener, Ontario, this 1th day of October, 1921.

JOHN lVILLlAM HESS. 

